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Segmental Brick Arch Math

Calculate the striking radius, arc angle, and intrados arc length for structural and veneer masonry segmental arches. Covers formwork sizing, brick count estimation, voussoir joint taper, mortar selection, and minimum rise-to-span ratios for structural arches.

Opening Geometry

inches

The physical inside width between the vertical springers

inches

The vertical distance from the spring line to the apex

Arch Centering & Math

Arch Radius (Pivot Point)

60.00inches

From apex down to striking center

Arc Angle

73.7°

Intrados Arc Length

77.22inches

Span: 72.0"Rise: 12.0"
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Quick Answer: How do you calculate a segmental brick arch radius and formwork dimensions?

R = (Rise² + (Span/2)²) / (2 × Rise). Then Arc Length = 2πR × (Angle/360). Example: 72″ span, 8″ rise: R = (64 + 1,296) / 16 = 85″ striking radius. Arc angle = 50.1°. Intrados arc = 74.3″ (this is the formwork contact length and the dimension for brick count estimation). The striking center drops 77″ below the spring line. Minimum rise: 1″ per foot of span (1:12 ratio) for structural segmental arches without concealed steel.

Masonry Arch Types & Rise-to-Span Guidelines

Rise-to-span ratio determines structural behavior, horizontal thrust, and whether the arch is self-supporting or requires concealed steel reinforcement.

Arch Type Rise/Span Ratio Arc Angle Thrust Level Steel Required?
Jack (flat)0 (no rise)ExtremeYes — always
Flat segmental1:18 to 1:1225–40°Very highUsually (veneer)
Standard segmental1:12 to 1:640–80°ModerateNo (if abutments adequate)
Deep segmental1:6 to 1:380–130°LowNo
Semicircular (Roman)1:2 (Rise = Span/2)180°MinimalNo
Horizontal thrust ≈ w × Span² / (8 × Rise). Doubling the rise cuts thrust in half. A semicircular arch has the lowest thrust for a given span because it directs nearly all force vertically. Flat segmental arches are the most architecturally popular (subtle, elegant) but the most structurally demanding. Most residential “brick arches” over windows are flat segmental veneer with a concealed steel lintel angle doing the actual structural work.

Pro Tips & Common Brick Arch Mistakes

Do This

  • Dry-lay your bricks on the centering formwork before mortaring to verify even joint spacing across the entire arc — adjust brick positions to avoid a thin “sliver” joint at the crown (keystone). The most visible defect in a brick arch is an asymmetric or unusually thin joint at the crown caused by poor layout planning. Divide the intrados arc length by your (brick + joint) module to check if the total comes out to an even number. If it doesn’t: slightly open or close all joints uniformly across the arc (adding 1/32″ per joint across 30 joints = nearly 1″ of total adjustment). Always start laying from BOTH springers simultaneously toward the crown, and use the keystone (crown brick) as the final closing unit. The keystone joint should match the average joint width, not be narrower or wider. Mark brick positions on the formwork with pencil during dry-lay for accurate mortared placement.
  • Ease (lower) the wooden centering gradually over 48–72 hours after the mortar has cured — never strip formwork suddenly. When the centering is removed, the arch must transfer from being supported by the formwork to being self-supporting through compression. Sudden removal causes shock loading: the arch settles abruptly, and mortar joints that haven’t fully cured may crack or separate. The correct procedure: (1) Wait minimum 7 days for Type S mortar cure (72 hours for initial set, 7 days for 75% strength). (2) Ease the shores (adjustable posts supporting the centering) by 1/8″ per day over 3–4 days, allowing the arch to gradually pick up its own weight. (3) Monitor for any hairline cracking at the extrados during easing. Minor crown settling of 1/16″ to 1/8″ is normal and indicates healthy compression loading.

Avoid This

  • Don't estimate brick count from the span dimension alone — the intrados arc length is always longer than the span, and the difference grows with rise. For a 72″ span with 8″ rise: arc = 74.3″ (3.2% longer than span). At 12″ rise on 72″ span: arc = 77.8″ (8% longer). At a semicircular rise (36″ on 72″ span): arc = 113.1″ (57% longer!). Estimating brick count from span results in a shortage. Always use the calculator’s intrados arc length as the basis for brick ordering, then add 10% for cuts and breakage. For arches with tapered (cut) voussoirs, waste can reach 15–20% because each brick requires an angled wet-saw cut.
  • Don't build a segmental arch near a wall corner or termination without resolving the horizontal thrust — the arch will push the corner outward and fail. Segmental arches rely on the flanking wall mass acting as abutments to resist horizontal thrust. At a wall corner, there is no continuous wall on one side to resist the thrust. The arch pushes the corner out. Solutions: (1) Install a concealed steel tie rod (threaded rod with bearing plates) at the spring line level connecting the two springers through the wall. (2) Use a reinforced concrete or steel bond beam at the spring line. (3) If the arch is veneer only (decorative over a steel lintel), thrust is minimal and the concealed lintel absorbs any tendency to spread. Never build a structural segmental arch within 2× the span distance from a corner or free wall termination without engineering review.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does the striking center fall below the spring line for a segmental arch?

Because a segmental arch is less than a semicircle. In a semicircular arch, the radius equals half the span and the center sits exactly on the spring line. In a segmental arch, the rise is less than half the span, so the arc is a “shallow slice” from a larger circle. The center of that larger circle must be further away (below) to produce a gentle curve. How far below? The distance is (R − Rise). For the example: R = 85″, Rise = 8″, so the center is 77″ below the spring line. This is important for the carpenter building the centering: the trammel pivot point must be physically accessible at this location (sometimes in the floor below the window, sometimes requiring a temporary post extension below the scaffold). If the center falls in an inaccessible location, the carpenter inscribes the arc using a plywood template calculated from the radius and arc angle instead of swinging a physical trammel.

Can I build a brick arch without wooden centering formwork?

Only in very specific circumstances — and generally not recommended. Traditional masons in some regions built small arches (< 24″ span) “freehand” by leaning bricks against each other with fast-setting mortar, but this requires extreme skill and limits the arch to shallow spans. For any arch over 24″ span, wooden centering is required because: (1) fresh mortar has virtually zero tensile strength — the unset arch is NOT a compression structure until the mortar cures and all voussoirs lock into compression against each other; (2) gravity will pull incompletely supported bricks out of alignment while the mortar is plastic; (3) the curvature must be geometrically precise for the compression line to follow the correct path through the voussoirs. Modern alternative: some masons use rigid foam (EPS or XPS) as centering formwork because it’s lightweight, easy to cut to curved profiles, and can be dissolved or collapsed after cure. However, foam lacks the stiffness to support heavy structural arches beyond a single wythe of veneer brick.

How do I calculate the mortar joint taper for each voussoir?

Each mortar joint in a segmental arch must taper (wider at the extrados, narrower at the intrados) so all joint lines radiate toward the striking center. Joint taper calculation: Taper per brick = brick depth × (intrados joint width / R). For a standard brick (3-5/8″ deep) with R = 85″ and 3/8″ intrados joint: extrados joint = intrados_joint + (brick_depth × intrados_joint / R) × 2 ≈ 3/8 + (3.625 × 0.375 / 85) × 2 ≈ 3/8″ + 1/32″ ≈ 13/32″. In practice: with a long radius (R > 60″), the taper is gentle and standard rectangular bricks produce acceptable joints (less than 3/4″ extrados). With a short radius (R < 30″; deep arches or small spans), the taper is dramatic and bricks must be tapered-cut on a wet saw or purpose-made tapered voussoir bricks used to keep the extrados joint within the 3/4″ maximum. Rule: if (brick_depth / R) > 0.08, the bricks likely need cutting.

What mortar type should I use for a structural brick arch?

Type S mortar (ASTM C270; minimum 1,800 PSI compressive strength) is required for all structural masonry arches. The arch operates in pure compression: every mortar joint must resist the compressive stress from the diagonal load path without crushing. Type S provides excellent compressive strength and good bond strength for the tapered wedge-shape joints in arch voussoirs. Type N (750 PSI) is acceptable ONLY for non-structural decorative veneer arches where a concealed steel lintel carries the actual structural load — the brick arch is purely cosmetic. Never use Type O (350 PSI) in any arch application; its low compressive strength cannot resist arch loads. For historical restoration: lime-based mortars (Type K or hydraulic lime) are used to match the original mortar profile, but these require significantly longer cure times (21–28 days before centering removal vs. 7 days for Portland-based Type S). Consult the project specifications and local building code for the required mortar type in your jurisdiction.

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